T. Cosgrove - Plumbing and Heating Services

Finding A Reliable Plumber In Glasgow

Easier than finding a needle in a haystack so try to narrow the search down by,

• Asking your friends and neighbours
• Looking in local newspapers
• Check trade bodies such as Gas Safe Register, SNIPEF, IOP ,Corgi etc
• Yellow Pages and Yell.Com
• On-line directories such as Google Local and Touch Local
• The local newsagent's window.

Ensure that the plumber you select has plenty of experience in your type of plumbing installation and more importantly that they know your particular house set up.

One of the most important things to consider however when employing a plumbers is how quickly can they get back to you in the event of some problem?

Unfortunately, given the very nature of the work, plumbing problems can and do occur when having plumbing work carried out and sometimes that means leaks.

All plumbers get leaks from time to time and anyone who says that they don't is lying, quiet frankly.

Leaks occur for varying reasons, a bad fitting, an awkward place, being distracted whilst working and so but when leaks happen they can cause significant damage to your property and time is crucial in minimizing the damage so if your plumber is from miles out of your area and can't get back to you within a reasonable time then you may have a major problem on your hands so try to select someone relatively local to you if you are planning on having major plumbing works done in your house.

Of course other trades have problems and things can and do go wrong with work carried out by those trades but water however, unfortunately, can cause lots of damage very quickly. A joiner, for example, can make a mistake of fitting a kitchen cabinet or hanging a door or a decorator can inadvertently paint a ceiling the wrong colour but these mistakes, whilst annoying, won't potentially cause significant damage to your home. A small water leak undetected for two or three days could ruin a house and something such as this could easily happen if the house is un-occupied whilst the work is being done.

Not every plumbing system is identical and with more and more new build houses and flats containing the very latest plumbing technology you have to make sure that your plumber is familiar with those technologies, un-vented hot water cylinders for example require your plumber to have a G3 unvented system certificate to be able to install one and to work the cylinder on one to carry out repairs and so on.

These types of hot water systems are to be found all over Glasgow but particularly in new flats and houses in the likes of Newton Mearns, Shawlands, Netherlee, Mearnskirk, Pollockshields, Muirend, Cathcart  and in The West End around Anniesland, Partick, Hyndland and the Woodlands area of the city

There are however still lots of traditional plumbing systems in Glasgow and the surrounding area, many still with cold water storage tanks and vented hot water cylinders and believe it or not there are many many properties in Glasgow still with old lead supply pipes and wastes.

In recent years though, most properties in areas particularly like Shawlands, Langside, Queens Park, Netherlee, Cathcart, Rutherglen, East Kilbride, Cambuslang and The NewGorbals have had gas combination central heating boilers installed which means that the cold water storage tanks have been removed along with the hot water cylinders so that all of the plumbing in the property is fed from the water main in the street.

Most of these areas contain large amounts of tenement flats and it is crucial that the plumber you employ has a good working knowledge of these flats otherwise you may face delays and problems in getting your work completed.

Some younger plumbers may have spent the previous few years working exclusively on the new developments along the river at Finnieston and Partick and may have no experience working in older properties such as tenement flats or the Victorian terrace houses which are prevalent in areas such as Newlands, Giffnock, Cathcart, Jordanhill, and Netherlee & Hyndland.

Do want your plumber spending your time and money learning how your plumbing system works in your home?

Obviously the opposite may be true with regard to new builds with some plumbers having absolutely no experience working in those sorts of properties but most experienced older plumbers have a very good grasp of plumbing fundamentals and the basics of the trade so most properties’  plumbing systems shouldn't provide too much of a challenge to them.

Also when selecting your plumber ensures that you can contact them in an emergency.

Most reputable plumbers will advertise their postal or home address, a telephone land line along with their mobile numbers however there are an increasing number of plumbers operating only with either a mobile number, an 0800 number or an 0845 number and some of these plumbers, unfortunately, are extremely difficult to contact when you need them if something goes wrong so beware of plumbers who are not prepared to give you proper contact details and full written quotes for the work that you want done.

Also, you should always ensure your plumber has adequate public liability insurance in place and that their work is guaranteed.

Ask references and don’t be afraid to check them out if that means going round to the person’s door and asking to see the work, any good tradesman will be more than happy for you to do this however it pays to be courteous so best to phone the person beforehand and remember to obtain at least three quotes for major works.

Finally, if you are having gas work done or a boiler repaired or replaced then you should insist on seeing the installers Gas Safe Registered identity card which will have their photo and Gas safe registered licence number on the front and the categories of work the are competent to do noted on the back, remember Corgi is no longer the competent gas body, Gas Safe Register are, so plumbers who tell you that they are Corgi registered for gas work are clearly being untruthful.

 

Gas Safe Register

WHAT IS GAS SAFE REGISTER?™

Gas Safe Register is the new hallmark for gas safety in Great Britain. From April 1st 2009, Gas Safe Register replaces CORGI gas registration as the official gas safety body.

So, from 1st April, by law, only Gas Safe registered engineers should carry out work on gas appliances or installations in your home.

Why do I need to use a Gas Safe registered engineer? It’s all about safety. To make sure that gas appliances such as boilers, fires, ovens and hobs are installed, maintained and serviced safely you should employ a Gas Safe registered engineer to carry out the work.

If someone other than a Gas Safe registered engineer does the gas work in your home, you could be risking the safety of your family and your property.

Why is CORGI gas registration in Great Britain ending? The HSE (Health and Safety Executive) undertook a review of gas safety in 2006. This review concluded that there was a strong case for modernising the gas registration scheme to bring added benefits to gas consumers and gas engineers. The review called for a clearer focus on gas safety, and simple registration and competence requirements for gas engineers without compromising safety or service standards. It was an opportunity to build on the successes of the existing registration scheme, and at the same time introduce innovation and add value to gas consumer safety.

What will happen to any existing investigations of registered installers? Any ongoing HSE, LA or police investigations against CORGI registered installers will continue and be unaffected. Any ongoing investigations of consumer complaints against CORGI registered installers in connection with the gas registration scheme will be passed to Gas Safe Register for completion.

How do I check my engineer is Gas Safe registered? Always ask for the card. All Gas Safe registered engineers have an ID card with their licence number and a photograph. The licence number is easily verified on the website or by phone and we will get back to you with confirmation of the engineer’s name.

If you think your engineer is not registered, just call 0800 408 5500 or let us know via our website.

How do I find a Gas Safe registered engineer? To find a Gas Safe registered engineer in your area, just come back to our website www.GasSafeRegister.co.uk on 1 April or call us on 0800 408 5500.

Download the consumer leaflet (pdf).

DO YOU LET OR RENT A PROPERTY?

Are you a landlord or letting agent? Landlords are legally responsible for the safety of tenants. So, to make sure any property you own is safe, all appliances must have a safety check carried out every 12 months by a Gas Safe registered engineer. You must give your tenant a record of that safety check within 28 days or to a new tenant before they move in. Remember you must keep a record of each safety check for two years.

All existing gas safety records will be valid until their expiry date (even if that date is later than 1st April 2009). Any gas safety record given to you after 1st April 2009 will only be valid if the engineer is registered with Gas Safe Register.

Letting agents need to be sure of exactly who is managing the gas duties at all properties. If it’s contractually your responsibility, then the same conditions apply to you as that of the landlord.

Are you living in a rented property? As a tenant, it is important to always check the ID of any gas engineer that comes to do work at your property. From 1 April 2009, the engineer must be a Gas Safe registered engineer.

It’s in your best interest to co-operate with the landlord whenever a gas safety check or maintenance needs to be carried out by letting the engineer in to do the work. And don’t forget to make sure your landlord supplies you with a copy of the safety check within 28 days of it being carried out or before you move in.

Remember, if you think a gas appliance is faulty turn it off and let your landlord know immediately.

In an emergency: If you smell gas or think there might be a gas leak: turn off the gas at the meter, extinguish naked flames, open windows and leave the area. Seek medical advice if you feel unwell. Call the Gas Emergency Freephone Number 0800 111 999.

Download the consumer leaflet (pdf).

Understanding Combi Boiler Hot Water Flow Rates

What does this mean?

Well what it means quite simply is how much hot water you get out of your hot water tap from your combi boiler.

Combi boilers installed about fifteen years or more ago were typically offered in two ‘sizes’ although customers were as baffled then as they are now, probably even more so what with the numerous combi boiler ranges available from almost every single boiler manufacture in the UK.

For the most part combi boilers then and now are more than adequate to heat the radiators sufficiently in all but the very largest house so in that sense the heating output of the boiler is not really important, just be aware that a typical combi boiler will heat your house be it a small one bedroom flat in Shawlands to a large semi-detached Victorian sandstone house in Giffnock, Clarkston or Broomhill.

Normally a boiler manufacturer will describe their combi boiler as a ' Worcester Bosch Greenstar 37 CDi condensing combi boiler' which means that the boiler has a maximum output to hot water of 37KW (15/1 litre per/minute) and on further reading you will see that the heating output of that particular boiler is described as '30KW p/hr' or approx 105,000 BTU p/hr.

Nowadays boiler manufacturers employ sophisticated sensors and fully modulating gas valves to manage how boilers heat the radiators in a house therefore  30 KW output to the central heating radiators will only use that amount of gas if the boiler gas-valve and sensors (Thermistors) demand that output. Similarly, if the heating load for a small flat is only 12 KW then the boiler will only use that amount of gas to heat that small flat.

In the past combi boilers were usually either 24 or 28 KW output models for central heating and hot water which translated to approx 9 or 11 litres of hot water delivered by the boiler to the hot water taps with a temp rise of 35 degree C. So if the temperature of the incoming water main to your house is 10 degree C then the boiler will raise that temperature by 35 degree C or if the incoming water main temperature temp is 18 degree C then the boiler will raise that temperature by 35 degrees too but will use less energy to do so because the cold water main temperature is warmer to begin with.

Now, however, there is an enormous choice in combi boiler hot water outputs,which would be determined by your particular hot water requirements (number of bathrooms etc), from 24 KW output to an enormous 54KW output which obviously affects the amount of hot water you can get from your hot water taps.

As said previously, a 24 KW combi boiler will provide a hot water flow rate at 35 degree C of 9 litres per minute whilst a 54 KW output combi boiler will provide a hot water flow rate of approx 25 litres per minute but the average hot water output from a combi boiler these days is around the 15 litres per minute mark which is what a typical 35KW combi will produce.

There are however some provisos. In order to achieve these flow rates the cold water supply in your house has to have sufficient water flow and pressure and ideally should be around 4 BAR pressure with a cold water mains flow rate of around 20 litres per minute.  The gas supply to the boiler also has to be of sufficient size to provide the boiler with enough gas to produce the stated manufacturer flow rates.

Often when a 24 or 28KW combi boiler was installed years ago they were replacing existing conventional gas boilers and the existing gas supply was sufficient for those types of boilers but totally inadequate for the new combi boiler however a lot of installers simply connected the new combi boiler to the existing gas supply (typically 15MM pipe work) which resulted in very poor hot water flow rates, particularly in winter when the incoming cold water main was at a much lower temperature than in the summer.

Some of these poorly installed installations resulted in hot water flow rates as little as 6 litres per minute, almost 50% less than the boiler was designed for, resulting in the extremely bad reputation combi boilers still have in relation to hot water production which has been difficult to eradicate and is often unwarranted.

I wish I had a pound for every time I’ve heard the remark “combi boilers are rubbish they take ages to fill a bath” which sadly in an awful lot of cases was true but combi boilers have improved enormously since those early days of 1988 when I first started installing them.

Personally I have had combi boilers installed in the last three houses I’ve lived in (29 and 35 KW models) since 1992 with very little problems at all and especially in relation to hot water flow rates. For showering combi boilers are excellent and are only bettered by unvented hot water cylinders which are much more expensive to install.

If you are changing from an old 24 KW Combi to a new Worcester Bosch Greenstar 37 CDi Combi boiler, for example, you may have to have the gas supply to the boiler upgraded to at least 28MM pipe work depending on how far away from the gas meter the new boiler is.

Also, there is little point in installing a combi boiler in a house with poor cold water mains pressure and a low flow rate in which case a 24 or 28KW combi boiler may be the only options open to you or you may have to opt for a traditional set up of conventional boiler with hot water cylinder or unvented hot water cylinder and a fully pumped set up of a twin channel programmer,room stat,cylinder stat and motorised zone valves.

I like to use a computer analogy in relation to combi boilers which is really a bit too simple however the bigger the number on the boiler the more hot water that particular boiler will produce, subject of course to pressure, flow rates and gas supply pipe-work. 

So think of the number on a boiler like you would the RAM in a computer, the more you have the faster the computer will run so the bigger the number on the boiler the more hot water it will produce.

Hopefully this post has helped you to understand what combi boiler flow rates and those confusing numbers on combi and most other boilers really mean for you.

 

Boiler installations-what to look for when obtaining quotes

I've compiled a small list of what you should think about before approaching someone for a boiler replacement quote.

1. Which boiler? Ask advice from your friends and family. Do some research on the internet and from magazines and the trade press, most good plumbers merchants have plenty of marketing material available which is free for you to take away with you and read.
2. Visit the manufacturers' websites for technical information such as hot water flow rates and central heating outputs . 
3. Ask the professionals which boiler they recommend then call that particular boiler manufacturer and ask their advice on things like service calls and how quickly they would be able to repair your boiler if it required a service visit during it's warranty period.
4. A good indication of a boiler manufacturer's customer service is indicated by how long it takes for the manufacturer's representative to answer the phone when you call their service helpline? Calling an 0871 premium number to wait on the phone for 20 minutes to speak to someone is perhaps an indication that you should look elsewhere for your new boiler.
5. The installer? When looking for an installer also take advice from friends or family however there are some serious considerations for you to consider in this particular regard. Most important of all is that from April 1st 2009 the installer must be a Gas Safe Registered engineer and don't just take someone's word that they are! Telephone Gas Safe Register and check the installer's details on this number: 0800 408 5500 or visit the Gas Safe Register Website at http://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/
6. With some condensing combination boilers rated at over 40KW output it is vitally important that the gas supply pipe-work to the boiler is sufficient and a good Gas Safe Registered installer will check this so this is another good example that you should look for when speaking with your prospective installer.
7. Cold mains water pressure and flow need to be sufficient to ensure that the boiler can produce the hot water that it was designed for but with insufficient water pressure and flow then the boiler won't be able to deliver the 17.2 litres a minute hot water, in the case of a Worcester-Bosch Greenstar 42 CDi ,for example so there is very little point installing that particular boiler in your home if your water pressure and flow is poor. Again, a competent installer will be able to check the water mains to ensure you have the correct boiler for your home.
8. Power-flushing? Another very important aspect of replacing a boiler so you should ensure that your installer power-flushes your system before your new boiler is installed and the system properly cleaned and inhibited with a leading brand name such as Sentinel or Fernox,indeed some boiler manufacturers insist on only those two chemical manufacturers' products for their boilers so make sure your installer uses one of them. I can't over-emphasise enough the importance of a clean system when installing a quality product such as the Worcester-Bosch Greenstar CDI combi boilers we install because a dirty heating system can cause the boiler to fail prematurely and some manufacturers may refuse warranty on systems where the water quality is poor therefore you could end up with an unforeseen expense if your installer doesn't clean the system properly.
9. Magna-clean, Fernox TFI and the Spirovent Magancleanse filters protect the boiler by stopping magnetic particles (iron-oxide) and dirt ( Spirovent and Fernox) from entering the boiler and are a worthwhile investment when you are spending significantly on a heating system up-grade such as a boiler replacement.  No amount of power-flushing is going to remove all of the iron-oxide in your central heating system which could have been there for anything up to thirty years so it makes sense to install a product the provides adequate protection against boiler failure so ensure your installer installs one.
10. Condensate waste? This can be a particular problem when installing a condensating boiler and can sometimes be difficult leading to some installers simply not installing the waste pipe-work at all which can lead to all sorts of problems not least damage to surrounding property and brickwork in particular so make sure that your installer talks you through the various ways of installing this important pipe-work.
11. During the recent bad weather some boilers condensate wastes simply froze leading to boilers breaking down when they were needed the most and in an awful lot of cases this was down simply to poorly installed condensate pipe-work so ask you installer what precautions he is going to take to try to ensure your new boiler'scondensate waste pipe doesn't freeze up next winter or in the winters beyond that
12. Programmers and thermostats? In this age of increasingly rising fuel prices it makes sense to invest in a quality central heating controller but unfortunately some installers are driven purely by cost so they will often install a combi boiler with the basic manufacturer's mechanical plug-in time-clock which offers only very limited control over the way the boiler is used for central heating however by using a sophisticated programmable room thermostat such as the Worcester-Bosch DT10 RF optimiser or DT10 RF digistat you can significantly reduce your fuel bills by controlling exactly the way your run your central heating and the temperature you run it at. These programmers control temperature of the living space.
13. The controllors can be programmed to run a different programme every single day for up to three times per day, seven days a week. They can also delay the start of the heating time by up to an hour in the milder months to ensure that your house doesn't overheat thus saving you money. The DT10 RF range can also programme the hot water pre-heat facility on the Worcester-Bosch  Greenstar combi boiler range of boilers which allows you to control this important feature. This means you can save even more money on your fuels bills by only using the per-heat when it is required rather than having it either on or off all of the time. 
14. A simple mechanical time-clock cannot save you money on your fuel bills because this type of programmer can only switch your boiler on and off at a given time each day which means your boiler is on all of the time that the programme is set for. At the very least,when installing a new combi boiler, you should insist to your installer that a simple room-thermostat is installed to ensure your house doesn't overheat when the boiler is on to heat your house.
15. Electrics? Unfortunately some installers completely disregard this aspect of a  boiler replacement however there are some very important considerations in this regard such as main equipotential bonding of the gas and cold water supply, supplemental bonding to the boiler pipework and making safe your old boiler, it's controls and the immersion hot water heater supply. All of those have to be done safely which is why we always employ a fully qualified electrician to carry out this work, does your installer?
16. Do you know your installer's name address and telephone number? An ever increasing number of central heating installers simply advertise an 0800 number, an 0845 number or a mobile phone number but good installers will publish their land-line telephone numbers and an address where they can be easily reached so ensure that you know how to contact your installer when you need him or her.
17. Finally,remember cheap means exactly that. If someone is quoting you a very cheap price to do your work then you have to consider what you are getting from them, exactly.
18. You should always obtain at least three quotes for the work and try to ensure that all of those quoting are quoting for more or less the same as the others in terms of boiler and materials etc.

Boiler types: which would suit your home best?

Here are a few examples and guidelines to think about and help you identify the type of condensing boiler most likely suited to your needs. We've added images underneath to show you how the different type of boilers work and what the impact is on your living circumstances.

Consideration:
You want to use your loft space for a room conversion or other purpose
Most suitable boiler: COMBI

Consideration:
You live in a flat or bungalow (i.e. have very little or no roof space)
Most suitable boiler: COMBI

Consideration:
Your home has more than 2 bathrooms    
Most suitable boiler: REGULAR OR SYSTEM

Consideration:
Your main water pressure is low
Most suitable boiler: REGULAR OR SYSTEM

Consideration:
You want to replace an old boiler to improve an existing conventional central heating system
Most suitable boiler: REGULAR OR SYSTEM or COMBI

Consideration:
There is a need to have hot water available on tap without waiting for it to heat up.
Most suitable boiler: COMBI

Combi Boiler

Regular Boiler

System Boiler

Please call for details, options and advice:
0141 638 1543 or Mobile 07957 542 569

Or write to us:
T. Cosgrove Plumbing and Heating Service
69 Mearns Road Clarkston
Glasgow G76 7LF

Proven technology to guarantee central heating system protection

MagnaClean® Professional sets an industry standard for plumbing and heating engineers when it comes to protecting and maintaining both new and existing heating systems.

In an age of advances and high efficiency gas and oil boilers there has never been a greater need to safeguard what amounts to one of the most expensive investments in the modern home - the central heating system.

Even a small build-up of iron oxide in a standard or modern efficiency boiler results in substantial efficiency loss and fuel wastage.  So, not only does the system perform inadequately, it also costs more to run and maintain.

MagnaClean Professional is a proven, high efficiency, full-flow magnetic filter designed to tackle all central heating systems removing virtually 100% of the suspended black iron oxide.  The benefits of this simple technology are immediate:

• Simple installation and effortless servicing saving time and money
• Immediate results and system protection following installation
• No ongoing running costs
• Quick and easy chemical dosing
• Long operational life AND guaranteed for TWO years

T Cosgrove, Glasgow's first port of call in Plumbing in Heating Services installs a MagnaClean® Professional filter to the boiler return pipe work. Always!

Greenstar CDi boiler series by T Cosgrove

The Greenstar CDi boiler series is part of a market-leading range of energy-saving condensing gas-fired boilers from Worcester. They can cut heating and hot water bills by between 15-20% - and they’re up to 30% cheaper to run than an older boiler.

Greenstar condensing boilers deliver this energy-saving performance by recycling exhaust gases to extract and re-use latent heat - a highly efficient use of energy which also significantly reduces carbon dioxide in the atmosphere.

• SEDBUK* A-rated efficiency - environmentally friendly
• 27kW, 30kW, 37kW and 42kW DHW outputs - a boiler for all property types
• Hot water and central heating temperature controls - consumer comfort and flexibility
• Mechanical, digital and radio frequency (RF) control options all available
• Optimising 7-day programmable room thermostat available
• 24 hour programmable room thermostat available
• Holiday function – frost protection and economic to run while you are away from home
• Keep hot facility - instantly available hot water
• Wall mounting frame housing pipes behind it - no exposed pipe work
• Fully condensing in both central heating (CH) and domestic hot water (DHW) modes
• Low NOx and CO2 emissions - environmentally friendly
• 2 year** warranty with 10 year** warranty on primary heat exchanger

T Cosgrove Plumbing and Heating Services:

Condensing the vapour

Condensing

The term 'condensing' is derived from the creation of condensation within the heat exchanger or flue. This liquid will need to be conveyed away to a drain via a plastic discharge pipe run by the installing engineer. When combustion of any kind takes place water vapour is always produced. In a 'standard efficiency' boiler the flue gas temperature is kept relatively high to avoid condensation and its related issues. But in a high efficiency boiler, so much of the heat produced in the combustion process is absorbed by the heat exchanger into the heating water and very little is wasted to the atmosphere via the flue, hence less fuel is burned to achieve the same results but the consequence is condensation which is dealt with in the appropriate manner.

Taking the mystery out of SEDBUK ratings

SEDBUK was developed under the UK Government’s Energy Efficiency Best Practice Programme with the involvement of boiler manufacturers, and provides a consistent basis for the comparison of the energy performance of different boilers. It stand for "Seasonal Efficiency of a Domestic Boiler in the UK"

To simplify the assessment SEDBUK ratings are from A to G, A-rated boilers being more than 90% efficient. Only A rated boilers - having efficiencies of over 90% carry the energy saving recommended logo.

Boiler efficiency is important to you. Not only does an efficient boiler produce less CO2 it also consumes less fuel for the same heat output - this will reduce your gas heating costs.

Remember the purchase price is paid once only, the heating costs are paid every year and any saving is repeated year after year.

When Traditional boilers burn gas to producing heat for heating your water and radiators they eject waste gases through the boiler flue. These waste gases can be 120-200ºC and hence the system is inefficient ejecting significant heat to the atmosphere. This is energy you have paid for.

Modern condensing boilers have large heat exchangers designed to extract the heat from these hot flue gases. Current heat exchangers can reduce the temperature of the ejected gases to below 100ºC and sometimes as low as 50ºC for the most efficient. This extracted heat is used to heat your home and improves the SEDBUK measured efficiency of the boiler to over 90%, a SEDBUK A rating.

Do you know where your water turns off?

Don't expect the plumber to know the answer to this question when he attends to your house because it's more than likely, upon arrival, he won't.

Almost every house plumbing system these days is different in some way and the location of the mains water stop-cock is often in an in-accessible place, behind kitchen units for example or under a floor or in the basement or in the garage.

There is always the option of turning off your water from the street if the valve's 'Toby cover' is accessible. It may have been tarmaced over, which is very common indeed, by one of the utility companies. It may even simply not exist it may even be full of rubbish or soil which means having to call out Scottish Water who will locate it for you however this can take days!

Not exactly the thing you, the customer, wants to be hear when your home is flooding at two in the morning. So, do yourself a favour and make sure you know exactly where your water turns off in order that the above scenario doesn't happen to you!

You can find out where your water stop-cock is by looking in the most obvious places:

kitchen cupboard, hall cupboard, cloak-room, basement, garage (always on the ground floor or basement or cellar), pavement at the front of your house or by asking your neighbours or the previous owner if you've just recently bought the house.

Once you have located the valve turn it off to check that it works properly:

Turn the handle clockwise for off or anti-clockwise for on.
Or, a quarter of a turn if the valve is on the pavement (these valves are a little bit tricky to locate and to operate) you will require a 'water key' for this type of valve which can be bought from any good plumbers merchant for approximately £15 and could literally be a lifesaver in an emergency, particularly if you live in a tenement flat!

Make sure that the valve actually works and that it does in fact turn off all of the cold mains water supply in your house not just, for example, the cold water supply to your kitchen sink. Check this by running another cold tap in your house or if you have an outside tap turn this on for a few minutes to ensure that the water is indeed off. You may have to check that the cold water tank in the loft (if you have one) is not filling up by flushing the toilet for example.

In the event that you are unable to locate the valve or turn it off then you are best advised to turn on all of the taps in the house on and then call a plumber but remember to keep a check on the taps that are running in case sinks, baths  & etc over-flow and, keep flushing the toilets!

These simple steps could ,at the very least, save you the expense of having to call out an emergency plumber during the night and they could assist you in minimising damage to your property.

A question we are asked often is 'can I put on my heating if the water has been turned off?' Yes, is the simple answer unless of course your heating system pipe-work is burst in which case no.

However for most cases whenever the water is turned off you can have your heating on but again if you are not sure ask a plumber/heating engineer.

This advice is general and is for information purposes only.

Always contact a qualified plumber if you are in any doubt about how to follow the above advice or call us on these numbers:
0141 638 1543 or 07957 542 569 and we will be happy to help.

T Cosgrove, at your service!